Aging begins in the epidermis.
posted 28th September 2023
AGING BEGINS IN THE EPIDERMIS
When we talk about aging, it is necessary to point out important concepts about the Dermis and the Epidermis. The dermis represents around 90% of skin thickness. This intermediate layer of the skin: It has collagen and elastin. The collagen is a protein that makes skin cells strong and resilient, and elastin keeps the skin flexible. The "skin barrier" that prevents water evaporation is also located here.
The epidermis is the skin resistant outer layer of the skin and the first line of defence of the body against environmental elements, ultraviolet radiation, bacteria and other germs. It is composed of 4-5 sub-kamadas of compacted cells. The epidermis is responsible for the cellular renewal cycle: the dead cells of the skin are detached from the corneum stratum (the superficial skin subcame visible to the eyes) and are replaced by new and healthy cells that generate deeper subcamals of the epidermis. The epidermis also includes its pores, which allow oil and dirt to escape from your body. The entire layer of the corneum stratum is replaced by new cells in a process known as peeling.
Understanding skin science and how your skin works to protect and rejuvenate you will help you take care of it properly. If your skin is naturally very dry, for example, you can use skin care products that will help strengthen the skin barrier to keep moisture inside and harmful bacteria. Oily skin types can use products that control excess lipids on the surface of the skin.
So, when aging happens in the Dermis it is because something wrong is happening in the Epidermis. So, it makes perfect sense to use barrier repairers, microbiome modulators, vegetable oils, glycerine, butters, caffeine, peptides. All these are fantastic assets to increase the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes.
Treating the aging epidermis will certainly improve the skin's micro-relief, which will visibly reduce wrinkles.
The repairing cream has the function of treating the epidermis, restoring the comfort of the epithelium, and reinforcing the skin's protective barrier.
The skin barrier is a layer that lies on the epidermis, consisting of fats (mainly ceramides), which has the function of protecting and preserving the hydration and health of the skin.!
The skin is made up of several layers. The protective barrier, also called the hydrolipidic mantle, is like a film that protects the epidermis, which, in turn, is made up of 5 layers.
Basal layer: the innermost layer, where keratinocytes, cells on the surface of the skin, are formed.
Spinous layer: keratinocytes that produce keratin, that is, protein fibers, which then take another shape, becoming more fusiform.
Granular layer: this is where keratinization really begins, the cells will produce harder granules which will be transformed into keratin and epidermal lipids including ceramides.
Lucid layer: here, the cells are very long and can no longer be distinguished from each other.
Corneal layer: the outermost layer of the epidermis, which has several sublayers of dead cells, very flattened. Cells in this layer bond through epidermal lipids, ceramides, essential to protect the skin.
Just above the horny layer of the epidermis is the hydrolipidic mantle, a very thin film composed of fats (mainly ceramides) and amino acids. This is the skin's protective barrier.
The skin microbiome is the latest buzzword in the beauty industry. From brands that put this term on their product labels to experts who see this discussion as something extremely necessary, this is the right time to talk about it and understand how to associate it with our skin care routine. Like our fingerprint, the microbiome is unique to each human being. This term is used to define the set of microorganisms, such as bacteria, fungi or even viruses, that live in our body and interact with each other to regulate our state of health. Also called the microbiota, the microbiome resides in the skin's barrier to protect tissue from external aggressors. As it is the most extensive organ in the body, it is possible to find millions of small organisms living on our skin, with different types of bacteria located in different areas of the body. For example, while some of these microorganisms proliferate in areas with higher oil content, others are located only in drier regions. In addition to its varied composition, there are also changes in the skin's microbiome that can occur over time. Factors such as age, pollution, exposure to UV rays, among others, can affect this barrier, minimizing its effectiveness in preventing infections, healing wounds, or even absorbing nutrients.
I would like to emphasize the importance of the microbiome. There is an increasing demand for beauty products to work together with the skin's microbiome so that both can guarantee the best possible results.
The Vogue - US published an interview with dermatologist Whitney Bowe explaining more about the subject: “When the microbiome is healthy and functioning at its maximum capacity, it acts as a biodynamic membrane, constantly making decisions about what can and what should enter in the skin. A barrier to healthy skin is hydration keeping potential pathogens at bay.”
When there is an imbalance, consequences can arise for our skin, such as becoming more sensitive, dry, and dehydrated, also becoming more susceptible to external aggressions or even the development of diseases such as eczema, rosacea or psoriasis. An unhealthy microbiome can even contribute to accelerating the signs of aging.
What precautions should we take?
Let's start with the basics. As with any area of our bodies, eating a balanced diet makes a positive contribution to the health of the microbiome. Also, not taking a very hot shower helps keep the properties of this protective layer intact. Another is the advantage of spending more time in nature, this can have a positive impact as it helps to increase the diversity of organisms present in our skin.
There are also necessary precautions regarding the products we use in our beauty routine. First, the smaller the amount of items used, the less chance we have of applying something that harms the microbiome. Another point of attention is to opt for softer products so as not to cause irritation. In this case, avoid cosmetics such as aggressive exfoliants or cleaning soaps with a high pH, which tend to unbalance our skin's natural pH.
Probiotic beauty products are increasingly being highlighted; this category is being offered frequently by cosmetic brands delivering properties to keep the skin's microbiome balanced even after the use of more aggressive ingredients.
Key words: Dermis, Epidermis, collagen, elastin, vegetable oils, glycerine, butters, caffeine, peptides.