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HISTORIY OF PERFUMARY

‘PERFUME’ derives from the LATIN ‘PER FUMUM/PER FUMARE’ meaning ‘THROUGH SMOKE. Somehow, we can say that ‘PERFUME’ is as old as discovery of Fire. Indeed, as soon as our ancestors discovered Fire, they also started to burn woods and plants which they dedicated to the Gods. Perfumery is 3500 years old.
The first Eau de toilette created in Ancient Egypt had a composition contained sixteen ingredients including honey, raisin, myrrh, broom, saffron and juniper macerated in red wine. This is Kyphi original recipe.
FRANKINCENCE – MASTIC - CALAMUS (JATAMANTSI) -GALANGA CARDAMON – CINNAMON BARK MYRRAY - LEMONGRAS – ROSE – BENZOIN – SANDALWOOD – AGARWOO - LIQUID FOREST HONEY RED WINE ALCOHO DRIEDS RAISINS.
In some civilisations the perfume was used as medicine as CHINE, GREECE, JAPAN, ITALY, GERMANY, EGYPT, INGLAND, ARABIA AND FRANCE.
The perfumer, due to his good sense of smell and skill in the production of olfactory compositions, become an expert in his fragrance creations. But, to become a MASTER FERFUMER much more knowledge it is needed. YURI GUTSATZ WAS CALLED MASTER PERFUMER. HE KNEW FROM A-Z OF PERFUME – MAKING. INCLUDING BLENDING, MOUDING, RICE POWDER PREPARATION, PACKAGING, LABELLLING BAUDRUCKAGE AND DISCOVERING THE ROW OF MATERIALS. THE OTHER SUCH AS JEAN LOUIS FARGEON WITH HIS TRATY ON PERFUMERY (1801), ERNEST BEAUX WITH HIS BEST SELLER CHANEL N 5, JEAN CHARLES WITH HIS CREATION METHOD AND STUDIES ABOUT OLFACTORY SISTEM, ROUDNISTKA WITH HIS STUDIES ABOUT EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS TOOLS FOR PERFUMERS TO LEARN AND MEMORIZE ALL THE DIFERENTS ODORS.
In my opinion To became a MASTER PERFUME it is need to have much more knowledge and a lot of experience. THE MASTER PERFUME ADDS SOMETHING NEW ON THE PERFUMERY.

The nosegay gardens were aromatics garden where the traditional herbs and spices where grown. For cooking purposes. They usually came in the form of a land parallel within a landscape garden and virtually every English House and Castle had one. Flowers where grown as well and potpourris were made. Nosegay then became a bouquet also called a Tussie-Mussie used by the Ladies to mas the bed odours, Today Tussie Mussie is used in wedding. The first spice traders and where did they come from The first spice traders were NUSANTAOS ( Indonesians) and they come from Southeast Asia.
Name countries and places on the cinnamon and clove route - NAME THE COUNTRIES AND NAMES OF PLACES ON THE CINNAMON AND CLOVE ROUTE: The cinnamon route started in Northern Indochina and Southern China and then proceeded from South China spice ports southward during the winter Monsoon down the Philippine Corridor. The route likely turned Southeast at the point to Sumatra and or Java. From the South-western in Indonesia the voyage took the Austronesian merchants across the great expanse of the Indian Ocean to Africa. And the Clove route from Chine throught the Philippine to the rest of insular Southeast Asia. There are other itineraries cited in the medieval Chinese and Muslin text about other important place like warehouses know of the Chinese as Sanfotosi and Toupo, like Cheryse of the Greeks and Suvarnadvipa of the Indian. And in Egypt appeared of name PUNT. Other direction l was abou Rome was cited Pitomaic of Berenike,

-The Incense Route started in the Southern part of the Arabian Peninsula. in the North, parallel to the Red Sea with approximately 65 stations. the routes, connecting the West to the East by land and by sea. These connected India and Arabia to Mesopotamia, Syria, Israel, Egypt, Greece and Rome. The Frankincense Trail caravan routes passed through a series of Kingdoms. Towards the end of the rout at DEDAN, the route divided into a few different routes. One turned North Eastward toward Mesopotamia. Two other routes were directed toward the seas. From Dedan one route continued inland to Petra, while the other turned Southward to the Pot of Leuce Come situated beside the east shore the red sea. From there the route continued by land, also to Petra. At Petra it split again one route went North to Damascus. The second one went West through Israel to Gaza and From there Egypt to Greece and Rome in Europe There was another route that from the southern part of Arabia through the desert north some forth days of travelling to the port City of Gerrha, in the Persian Gulf, and from there to Mesopotamia and Israel and Europe. In Convoys was composed by Camels whole trip was done from South Arabia what is today Yemen to Gaza.
-Ancient Greeks practice perfumery and systematic treatment, both in practice and in theory. Teofastro is considered one of the first author to write about the art of perfumery. This author published a treatment on perfume in 323 B.C., and his interest in fragrances proved by his great skill in the study of botanicy (knowledge of plants).

-Cyprus, land of the Chypre perfume, The forests of the Copper island (currently Cyprus) and its oak mosses, its Henna
(Kypros), rose and iris oils, ointment boilers contribute to the fame of Greek perfumers. Their names will be given to the Master Perfumers: Perfumers: the ‘kupirijo’ or ‘Cypriots’.

11.Who invented the first cooling coil, precursor to the alembic?
-Avicenna, a philosopher and Prince of doctors invents a ‘cooling coil’’ for the perfume-making.
What were ‘marashas’ used for?
-Maraschas – Vials are kept close to hand. As a token of friendliness to welcome the guests, they are filled with rose water, sometimes amber, orange, flower, geranium, or jasmine essence. These perfumes are used on the head, the face, the neck, and the hands of the guests.

The Alambique was developed in the year 800 A.D. by the Arab Alchemist Jabir ibn Hayyan. The word alembic was derived from the metaphorical meaning of “something that refines; that transmutes”, using a distillation. Distillation is the selection method based on the liquid equilibrium vapor phenomenon of mixtures. In practical terms, when we have two or more substances forming a liquid mixture, a distiller can be an appropriate method to purify them: it is enough that they have volatilities that are reasonably different from each other. An example of distillation that has been done since ancient times is the distillation of alcoholic and spirits. The drink is made by condensing alcohol vapors that escape using the heating of a little more fermented. As the alcohol content in the distilled drink is higher than that which is no longer, characterize it here in the purification process.

Ancient Roma: 100 B.C.-700 A.D.
In the 7th century B.C, there are two ways to work glass. Objects ar either carved into a block of transparent glass or moulded in the same way as the method used for bronze. But Romans know the technique of glassblowing and quickly replace ceramic with glass. Then, they discovered that they could use various moulds and associate them to create several colours in their creations. By heating each part, they link each other.This process brings an important development to the glass industry. From the 1st century before our era, glass became the main material used in the manufacturing of perfume glass bottles. The expansion of the Roman Empire re, under Augustus brought with it the expansion of glass-making throu-ghout Italy and surrounding Mediterranean countries.

Perfumes in the Middle Age
Which perfume materials were used by the Church ?
The Pre-eminence of the Church slowed down the Evolution of Sciences. To ensure its Safety, there is only one Reference: The Bible
Christianity became Religion of State and the Church entered in Conflict with Reason.
Medicinal herbs were grown in convents. Monks recopied and translated the texts of
Galien, Aristote, Hermes, Dioscorides, and Pliny. They revealed the remedies, to make the synthesis of all their past
knowledge. Some recipes were close to magic with many strange ingredients. The recipes were manufactured and produced at certain times, on certain days, according to the
trajectory of planets, at sunrise or at sunset...
Where does the word ‘pommade’ come from ?
-The English word "pomade" is derived from French pommade meaning "ointment", itself arising from the Latin pomum (fruit, apple) via the Italian pomata or pomo (meaning "apple" — as the original ointment recipe contained mashed apples).
What is the origin of the expression ‘as expensive as pepper’
-The occupation of Constantinople in 1453 by the Turks outlined the supremacy of the Ottoman Empire in this part of the world and meant for a while the nearly total stop to economic relations between the East and the West.
The price of gums and herbs increased a lot during this period and spices were so
precious that they were used as a currency, hence the origin of the expressions such as ‘pay in cash’’ or ‘as expensive as pepper’’.
What was the town of Salerno renowned for.
-From the 12th century, the School of Salerno, in the South of Italy is the only establishment to deliver a medical training of quality. In the following centuries ancient knowledge is transmitted thanks to e translation in Latin, Italian or Arabic. The Teachers are not clerks like in most others Universities of Occident, but they are public medicine practitioners.
What is Charles Delorme, the doctor of Louis XIII known for ?
-Charles Delorme, doctor of Louis XIII was the first doctor to wear a special blouse to protect him against plague. Under the influence of Italian doctors and probably the ‘Comedia del Arte’ from where he borrowed the idea of a mask with a long nose in which he inserted a powerful perfume, blended with herbs and antiseptic vinegar. This blouse will then be used by all the doctors of that period. Doctors, with big black hats on their heads and dressed with long black capes and the mask looked like strange birds.
Renaissance perfumes
Which Queen of France, from Italian origin, made perfume gloves fashionable ?
-Catherine di Medici.
Why were baths abandoned.
-Charles Delorme, doctor of Louis XIII was the first doctor to wear a special blouse to protect him against plague. Under the influence of Italian doctors and probably the ‘Comedia del Arte’ from where he borrowed the idea of a mask with a long nose in which he inserted a powerful perfume, blended with herbs and antiseptic vinegar. This blouse will then be used by all the doctors of that period. Doctors, with big black hats on their heads and dressed with long black capes and the mask looked like strange birds.
What is a pomander?
-A pomander, AMBRE APPLE, is a ball made for perfumes, such as ambergris, musk, or civet. The pomander was worn or carried in a vase, also known by the same name, as a protection against infection in times of pestilence or merely as a useful article to modify bad smells. Are used by the aristocracy bourgeoisie illustrate many the double function of perfumes in the Middle Age. Therapeutic and Perfuming they appeared for the first time in Europe in 1174.
What is the main aromatic compound of violet?
-Violet (Viola odorata) is decribed like a particularly sweet scented and fragrant flower. Herbs, like Culpeper's, describe violet as a “cold and wet plant ”, with many medicinal qualities. It is used as laxative and as a treatment for syphilis and uterine complaints counteracts coleric moods and others. In the nineteenth centurie was discovered its isomer ketone.
17th-18th century perfumes
What is Colbert known for To put a stop to the import of glass from Venice, the Prime Minister Colbert encourages the glassmakers and in 1665, the Royal Glass manufacture is founded. Later, in 1830 the manufacture is renamed Saint Gobain.
What is Angel water ANGEL WATER is a composition with BENZOIN AND STYRAX used by LOUIS XIII. What are the major characteristics of perfumery in the 18th century ?
-One of the caracteristic is a traditional ambivalence between leisure perfumery and therapeutic perfumery, ambivalence that will prevail until the late 19th century.
What changed this status was the set-up of an independent profession of perfumers which will be the base for the supremacy of French perfumery in Europe.
-First European Treatise on Perfumery
-The invention of printing
The 18th century represents a milestone in the history of perfumery. In 1736, La Pompadour launched the fashion of the famous 'Eau de Cologne' of Jean-Marie
Farina and in 1740, the aromatic vinegar.
-1750, the first famous French crystal makers arise.
The Art of decorating bottle also starts appearing.
List of the Guild of Gantiers-Parfumeurs published in 1776:
When was the first official Eau de Cologne created and by whom?
-The first Official Eau de Cologne was created in 1792 by Jean M. Farina.
Who were the Muscadins and where does the term come from ?
-After the Revolution in 1789, perfumes are temporarily banned under the Terror regime and some aristocrats are brought to the guillotine with pomanders or scented muslin bags around their necks. However production goes on with names that do not bode well with perfumery such as 'Elixir of the Guillotine'. At the same time, there is a silent revolution of the perfumers with the so-called 'Muscadins', enemies of the revolutionary Jacobins. With their harlequin style hats, the Muscadins go around wearing strong musk perfumes (hence the term 'Muscadin') as a way to express their disagreement.
What was the name of the first corporation of perfumers
- The first corporation of perfumer was intoduced of the titlle « MASTER GAUNTIER PERFUMERS - and a true corporation with statues approved by the parliament of Provence on 11 February 1729.
Who was the first fashion designer to create a perfume ?
-In 1910, Paul Poiret became the first stylist to create a collection of perfumes correspondence is couture creations. Inspired by his daughter's name, he defined up 'Les Parfums de Rosine’. Before Grasse became the world capital of perfumery, to which industry was the city associated with
-The town of Grasse, located between the Mediterranean and the Southern Alps was a very active commercial city in the industry of the tannery.
Describe the distinction between the House of Grasse and the House of Paris.
In the 19th century and early 20th century, a few soapmakers turned perfumers. Whereas all the perfumers were established in Grasse, soapmakers chose to set up in or around Paris. One of the main reasons for this choice was that in La Villette, a district of Paris, there were important slaughterhouses; LARD and other animal-derived ingredients such as the visceras are specially used in perfumery, soapmaking and the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry in generally, particularly from the middle of the 19th century. This differentiation of headquarters contributed to make a distinction between the House of Grasse and the House of Paris.

Which invention(s) changed the face of perfumery in the 20th century.
- The first part of the 19th century was the first developments of the syntetized molecules which will become major compounds of contemporary perfumery although VANILLIN AND COUMARIN were to shift perfumery from artisanal to modern, others discoveries transformed the art of perfume- making forever. The 20th century: transformation of perfumery
The 20th century is about innovation and memory characterised by an association of discoveries in technologies and chemistry with the memories of the past where the charm of Antiquity and the Oriental exoticism blend into new types of perfumes.
Briefly explain in your own personal words, your vision of perfumery in the next 20 years as well as the markets which will develop and why,
In a future that is not very distant, because changes do not happen overnight, they are not static, but dynamic, it is a summation process until it results in a lifestyle. A good idea would be for perfumers to join forces to understand the future consumer’s requirements.
Biodiversity could redesign the Perfumery, personal hygiene and cosmetics industry. In fact, this has been happening. The concept of ingredients used in Perfumery of natural origin is expanding and brands have sought to promote sustainability through the incorporation of local approaches and developments in biotechnology.
With the growing demands of consumers and climate change worldwide, the sector's demand for natural and sustainable ingredients has been adapting to this new scenario. Recent mergers and acquisitions in the active ingredients market confirm the importance of raw materials of natural, vegetable and organic origin. And themes such as sustainability and the environment will continue to be on the agenda for a long time to come. It is necessary to anticipate these trends, meet the new demands of consumers from now until 2040. It will be extremely important to understand the new demands of the new consumer who values health and well-being. The major trends in behavior, innovation, technology, and market that will influence the follow-up of Perfumery in the coming years will be extremely significant. Concepts such as sustainability, personalization, social value, technology, and transparency will become decisive when choosing a product. It will not be enough to just analyse the economic indicators, because who will determine if a brand will grow or disappear will be this new consumer, who will determine the direction of the market.

KEY WORDS: HISTORY OF PERFUMARY - BIODIVERSITY - BIOTECHNOLOGY - PERFUME.